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Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

Claudia Judd 4 Min Read
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Every July, the ateliers of Paris close their season with the pieces that take the longest to make and the most nerve to wear. And every season, somewhere inside the embroidery and the architecture, there is a Bride. This round has given us six clear directions worth knowing about, whether you are planning a look of your own or simply want to understand where bridal fashion is heading next.

Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

Sculpted and Sheer

The corset is having a moment again, but not as an accessory. At Schiaparelli, a bodice was moulded to the body like a second skin, bare at the torso, paired with a fringed metallic skirt cut on the diagonal. Rami Al Ali took a softer version of the same idea, chevron beading fading into layered tulle. And Iris Van Herpen, never one to sit still, sent out a nude gown traced in liquid metallic embroidery, worn with a sculptural mask that turned the whole look into something closer to art than dress. The throughline: bodices are getting more architectural, and skirts are being left to do the softening.

Feathers Take the Aisle

Feathers stopped being trim this season and started being structure. Schiaparelli's blush gown used them as volume, built up in tiers with a single dramatic wing at the shoulder. Stephane Rolland used them twice over, once pooling at the hem of an otherwise minimal column, and again as a full skirt beneath a plunging keyhole bodice. This is texture doing the work that embellishment used to do.

Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

Ballgown Romance, Reworked

The ballgown is not going anywhere, but the finish has changed. Georges Hobeika showed lace in two ways: a strapless gown with crystal fading from soft grey into dense sparkle at the floor, and an off the shoulder long sleeved version with a plunging neckline and a cathedral veil. Zuhair Murad leaned fully into three dimensional floral lace, one strapless and dense, one sheer and long sleeved, both finished with a butterfly at the hairline, a nice reminder that a single styling detail can carry a whole story. Elie Saab closed with the kind of blush, crystal covered ballgown built for a finale, veil included.

Fluid Movement and Draping

Where the ballgowns built up, another group of houses let go. Stephane Rolland showed a halter gown in soft, pleated organza that moved as the model walked rather than holding its shape. Dior embroidered a fern motif across an off the shoulder gown with real movement in the skirt. Chanel, true to form, ended its show with a Bride in a lace cape sleeve top over a full tea length lace skirt, set against a garden backdrop, proof that ladylike volume still has a place at the top table.

Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

The Cape, Collar and Cloak

A handful of houses used capes, collars and cloaks to add drama without adding weight. ASHI sent a look with a sheer, frayed lace canopy carried like a parasol over a corseted mini dress, all texture and movement. Rami Al Ali went cleaner, an off the shoulder column gown finished with an oversized shawl collar that extended into a full length train cape. Both prove that drama does not have to come from the skirt.

Blush Is the New White

If there is one colour story to take from this season, it is blush. Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad and Georges Hobeika all showed some version of it, from full crystal coverage to soft floral lace to ombre sparkle. It sat comfortably next to ivory and white throughout the week, which says something about where Bridal colour is heading: less about a single shade of white, more about warmth.

Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

The Overview

Structure and softness were the two forces at play this season, sometimes within the same look. For Brides planning their own day, the read across is simple: a sculpted bodice does not have to mean a rigid skirt, and volume does not have to mean stiffness. There is room to mix, and the strongest looks on the runway this season were the ones that did.

Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

Straight from Paris Couture Week: The Bridal Edit

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